Six-step pruning of kiwi in winter

The six-step pruning method must first solve the following five problems:

The first is to highlight the role and characteristics of the "T" frame. From the young tree to the early fruit stage, multi-branch racking is implemented to facilitate crown expansion and early yield. The full fruit period is gradually improved to single-stem multi-branch racking; Due to variety pruning, flexible control. No one size fits all; the third is to control the top advantage and prevent the resultant parts from shifting; the fourth is to cultivate the new branch group to rejuvenate the tree vigor; the fifth is to increase the commercial fruit as the premise, not simply pursue the yield.

Step 1: Determine the amount of branches and buds

For example, if the yield per mu is 2000 kg, and the row spacing is 2 meters × 3 meters, it is calculated as 100 plants, the average plant yield is 20 kg, and each kg is calculated as 10 fruits, which means that each plant needs to retain 200 fruits, plus 20% of accidental losses. Keep 240 fruits; each fruit branch needs 3 fruits to retain 60-80 flower buds; in winter, it needs to be pruned with fewer branches and more buds, and each female branch is pruned with 6-8 flower buds, which requires 12-18 A mother branch, that is to say, there can be 2 to 3 fruit mother branches per square meter.

Step 2: Processing the backbone

One is to remove bent, damaged skin, stems of diseases and insects, and poor-growing stems of multi-trunk shelves year by year, but not too much at one time, so as not to affect the yield; second, the main branches and main vines are seriously moved, aging, and weak. Re-shrink; third, the main stem growth is not ideal, you can cultivate and use the middle and lower long branches to replace, wait for the new main stem to bear fruit before removing the old stem. The main branches that need to be removed should be sawed off immediately after the fruit is picked to avoid wounds in spring.

Step 3: Pruning

That is to choose to leave the year-end parent branch. When choosing mother branches, you can follow the principle of “five to five stays”: ①Go far and stay near (the bare-legged branches far away from the main stem); ②Go and leave (when there are several mother branches at the same time, choose to leave the first branch) ③Remove the outer branches (that is, the outer branches outside the second frame wire) and stay in; ④Remove the bend (growth and curly shrink branches) and leave straight; ⑤Remove the weak (weak branches, ultra-short branches) and stay strong; at the same time Cut dead branches, dense branches, overlapping branches, dry piles, etc.

When pruning, you must master the "five light and five heavy" techniques: â‘  mature trees are light, young trees are heavy; â‘¡ young and old are heavier; â‘¢ prosperous trees are light, weak trees are heavy; â‘£ upper part is light, lower part is heavy; Light and heavy inside. The selected mother branch must have strong shoots and full buds and good maturity. At the same time, it is necessary to select more than 20% of the resultant parent branches to facilitate selection and comparison during re-cutting.

Step 4: Cut the shoots and leave the buds

After the pruning is finished, the selected mother branches are processed. Generally, no matter if the spring and summer shoots are full buds, all the buds are left. The unsatisfied buds, budding buds, necrotic buds, and autumn shoots are all cut off. (I.e. topping), the buds under the blind joints are of general quality and should be retained. According to the pruning method and yield calculation, the strong long-bearing mother branch can leave 12-15 full buds, the moderate branch leaves 8-12 buds, and the weaker mother branch leaves 6-8 buds.

Step 5: Recut

Consider and compare the selected parent branches. After leaving enough parent branches, the inappropriate, unsatisfactory, and missing weak branches will be removed.

Step 6: Pull branches and tie vines

After the pruning is finished, pull the branches and tie the vines. This work must be completed at the end of January of the following year. First, the branches are flattened on the shelf surface and the branches are covered with hyperbolic cloth strips, and the outer wires are tied tightly. For example, the branches can be cross-stretched and tied by the tree with a hollow core. Tie 1 to 2 branches per branch, and the branch distribution should be even and reasonable.

Pay attention to these details when pruning small trees in winter

"Remove branches from the shelf, shorten the shelf under the shelf, and cultivate the crown." Small kiwi trees that have been put on the shelf but cannot bear fruit. The branches above the shelf, including upright branches, are higher than the shelf and are not conducive to future tasks. Drop. The branches should be as short as possible, leaving 3-5 full buds on each branch. In the second year, the main purpose is to cultivate new branches. The purpose is to spread the shelf as much as possible and cultivate a reasonable layout for the future high and stable yield. Adult trees less than four years old are not called fruit-hanging as much as possible. If you hang fruit, even if you hang 0.5-1kg of fruit, it will affect the output of 5-10kg in the next year, so early hanging will often outweigh the gain.

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