Recently, the fruit grower who grows grapes in Zanhuang asked how to cut grapes in winter. The introduction is as follows.
Pruning grapes in winter can reasonably control the amount of inflorescence and yield of grapes in the following year, increase the rate of germination and vine formation, which is beneficial to the growth of branches and vines and the prevention and control of overwintering pathogens and pests. But winter pruning needs to cut off a lot of branches and vines, and the amount of pruning of the whole plant can reach 1/3 to 2/3. Therefore, the nutrient loss of pruned branches must be considered. Pruning the grapes too early or too late will lose a lot of storage nutrients, which is not conducive to the germination, inflorescence supplement differentiation and new shoot growth in the following year.
1. Pruning time
The best period for grape winter shearing is when the tree fully enters the dormant period to 30 days before the bleeding period.
1. Greenhouse cultivation
Trimming should be finished before laminating. It is usually carried out after the temperature has dropped significantly and all the grapes have fallen for 20 days. Beware of cutting too early in the winter, and you can cut it late to enhance the frost resistance of the grapes, but be careful not to be too late to avoid wasting a lot of nutrients due to injury.
2. Buried soil cold protection area
Generally, the first pruning is completed after the grape leaves fall to the soil before freezing, so as to facilitate burial. The second pruning will be carried out after the excavation in the coming year before the injury.
3. Areas vulnerable to spring night frost
It is suitable for pruning later, but before the bleeding period.
Second, winter cutting skills
1. Identify the mother branch
High-quality results The mother branches are dark in color, shiny, fully mature, and the base 2 node diameter is 0.8-1.2 cm thick. The branches stretched tortuously, the internodes were short, the nodes protruding and thick, the bud eyes were tall and full, and the scales were tight. The cross section of the branches is round, the xylem is developed, the pith is small, the tissue is dense, and there is no disease and insect pests.
2. Trim sequence
First from the stem to the vine, then from the main to the side, and finally to the branches.
3. Trim length
Common are mainly short shoots (2～3 buds), medium shoots (4～6 buds), and long shoots (more than 8 buds). The length of the cut is mainly determined by its growth potential, the rate of fruiting branches and the height of the flower bud implantation position .
â‘ Under the same conditions, the branches that are strong and well-nourished should be kept properly.
â‘¡ The flower buds in the lower part of weak branches should differentiate well and should be cut appropriately; extended branches should be kept long, and prepared branches should be short cut.
â‘¢The fan-shaped pruning with multiple main vines on the grid frame is mainly pruning with long shoots, middle shoots or mixed pruning with long shoots, middle shoots and short shoots, while the pruning of dragon stems is mainly short shoots.
â‘£Pruning of short shoots is the main method in areas with poor soil, insufficient fertilizer and water, and drought.
4. Trim position
The pith of the vine at the cutting position is larger, the tissue is loose, and the water is easy to evaporate. Therefore, the cutting mouth should be 2 to 4 cm away from the bud eye when pruning, to prevent the evaporation of water in the bud eye and increase the dry branches. The cutting mouth should be chosen as far as possible on the side opposite to the cutting mouth bud.
5. Bud retention
The main factors affecting the amount of sprouts in winter are the frame type, the pruning method, the strength of the tree, the germination rate of the buds and the ratio of new shoots. In the actual operation of winter shears, the amount of shoots is often determined based on experience, and it is generally appropriate to double the amount of shoots on the shelf in the following spring. For example, 15-20 new shoots are left on the surface of the fence, and 30-40 shoots should be retained during winter pruning. If the short shoots are pruned, 8-10 parent shoots will be left.
Three, matters needing attention
1. Less damage to the main vine
The main grape vine is the main organ for storing nutrients. If the main vine is damaged too much and too severely, it will not only cause the main vine to rot, but also affect its growth potential and fruit bearing capacity. Therefore, when pruning, the wounds on the main vine should not be too close to each other, and more should avoid causing wounds. In order to avoid infection of bacteria on the wound on the main vine, 3% potassium permanganate solution or 1% calcium chloride solution should be applied after trimming for disinfection protection.
2. Old and weak vine update
Due to the continuous extension of the main vine and side vines, the growth of the tree is gradually weakened, or the growth of the tree exceeds the top of the shelf or is damaged by diseases and insects and cannot be used continuously, it must be retracted and updated in time, otherwise it will affect the yield and growth.
â‘ For perennial vines whose apex is weak and the back end still has good fruiting parts, retract to the strong-growing vines.
â‘¡For perennial vines with good branches at the apex and bald rear ends, press the vines to renew and cultivate new plants.
â‘¢For weak growing perennial vines, if they still have the ability to bear fruit, when there is no sprouting at the base, it can be combined with the method of shorting the mother branches and tying the old vines upright to help weak vines become stronger and balance the tree's vigor. .
â‘£ For perennial vines, if they have no fruiting ability, they should be completely removed.
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